Journey of the Missionary Party

JOURNEY OF THE MISSIONARY PARTY
The following is an abstract of the journal kept by Asahel Munger during the emigration to the Oregon country in 1839:

May 4, 1839--This day after finishing all our arrangements we started from the states, from our country; went about 3 hours to Saplin (Sapling) grove--a place where the company camp for the first time.....

May 8--After traveling Tuesday and part of today we came in sight of the Conzas (Kansas) village, camped within 2 1/2 miles of it...

May 9--Exchanged 3 horses and obtained two horses and two mules of Brother Johnson who had the care of the Methodist mission at this place. He gave us a good bargain in the horses, and they gave us many things which we needed for the journey.

May 12--...Camped on the Black Vermillion river.

May 14--Mr. Richardson shot 7 large fish that would weigh 2 to 3 lbs each.

May 17--Found a beautiful place for encamping--steep bank on two sides--pleasant stream. Eliza's health not as good as usual--though she has endured the journey much better than we could have expected. The horse she rides is not an easy traveler.

May 19--This morning E. rose early and prepared breakfast as usual-- I slept later on account of having watcher last night. I am not very well myself--E tired out--rode 18 or 19 miles without stopping. One of the company shot an Antelope--which is a species of Deer--very good meat-- E. so much exhausted that she could not take her supper with us--though after resting awhile she could eat.....

May 23--Evening the storm came up from two directions--clouds above appeared to move in the opposite direction from those below, after sunset it commenced raining and blowing, most of the tents were blown down. I stood outside of our tent and held it by the help of E. & Mrs. G. who were inside holding with all their might. Storm continued about an hour.

May 31--Moved on to the Forks of the Platt, to the usual crossing place--found the water too deep to ford--pitched our tents and commenced making preparations for building our boat--Several hunters went out for skins to build it of--it requires 4 large skins to make one large enough... We discovered a very large encampment of Indians, but a short distance from us on the opposite side of the river.....

Jun 1--Not molested at all by the Indians.

Jun 3--This morning 4 ment took our boat and went up the river, the south branch of the Platt. It was not considered safe to go up the north branch (though we had designed to do so) on account of the Indians...

Jun 4--Crossed the river this day. Horses waded and swam. In riding across on horseback myself ny saddle girth broke and let me into the river, but providentially the water was shallow in that place--we were under the necessity of wading the river and leading our boat. The current was swift, and the bottom quick sand, it was very hard work. The river here was quite wide, moved on about 12 miles and camped.

Jun 6--Started across the prairies for the North fork of the Platt, camped within 3 or 4 miles of it near the head of Ash creek--had a heavy storm. Seven or 8 or our horses ran away, all found before night....

Jun 10--Traveled all day in sight of the Chimey--Stoped about noon nearly opposite it. About this spar of hard earth or rock there appeared one of the grandest scenes I ever beheld. About 7 or 8 miles from us is what is called Scotch (Scotts) bluff, it looks like an old castle with a rounding top......

Jun 14--Came to Larimer's (Laramie) Fort about 11 o'clock, forded the river and camped on the flat betwee the river and the Fort remained through the day. There were 10 men at the fort. 3 of these men had Indian wives--they appeared well--one could speak some English. E. received a present of a pair of moccasons. E. made her a present in return....

Jun 15--Started out this morning--went only about 12 miles to a warm spring which boils out of the bottom of a great hill--and yet is warm winter and summer.

Jun 18--Stopped at a pleasant stream which was very refreshing. E. almost sick for want of light bread. Mr. G. is not willing to have it made....

Jun 19--....Camped on the Platt a pleasant place. Mr. Johnson came near drowning in attempting to swim the river while bathing--providentially struck a sand bar and waded out....

Jun 20--.....We are now at the point where we cross the Platt, arrived here at 12 o'clock--commenced building two boats. These boats are made of poles tied together and covered with Buffalo skins....

Jun 22--Boats completed by about noon--all crossed river safely by 5 o'clock. The water here is deep--rowed our boats--packed up--went about 3 miles and camped for the night.

Jun 23--Traveled up the Platt until noon--then left it and bore away a northwest direction towards the Sweet water river a branch of the Platt...

Jun 25--....Came this evening to the rock Independence. This is the point where we struck the sweet water--a small river--branch of the Platt. ...This rock is called Independence from the fact that in 1830 the American Fur Co spent the 4th of July here and celebrated the day. It is a long oblong rock covering perhaps 3 or 4 acres of ground. Many have enscribed their names upon it.

Jun 27--About 10 o'clock this morning we saw for the first time the wind river mountains which are the highest range of mountains, from the vicinity of which, waters run East and West. It is covered with snow-- we are several days travel from them.

Jun 29--.....E. not very well today--her food distresses her....

Jul 1--E. had hard headache. Camped again on Sweet Water. This morning some frightened by two Indian dogs which came into camp--found Indians nigh. Crossed Sweet Water twice halted to rest. E. ate nothing this morning--at noon some better--head aches yet. After noon had a long march to a spring 6 1/2 hours. E. & myself stopped once and turned a little to the right and took a drink of water from the river, that descends to the States, for the last time--Today on the height of ground could see the valley of the Green river which descends to the Pacific, and the Sweet water which descends to the States coul see on our right more clearly the wind river mountains covered with perpetual snow...

Jul 4--at half past 10 today we halted to remain until we should hear from Mr. Dripse's camp (who is the head of the American Fur Company). Soon he appeared himself and Capt. (Courtney M.) Walker with him, to the joy of all the camp. He brought us cheering news. Mr. Ermitinger (Ermatinger), one of the head men of the Hudson Bay Company came over with 8 men and a company of Indians to rendezvous, who was expecting to accompany missionaries if any should come over. They expected to meet Mr. Lee and his company here.

Jul 5--started soon after sunrise, and arrived at rendezvous about half past 10 o'c. Had a friendly interview with Mr. Ermitinger & Dr. Newel (Robert Newell), one of the men employed by the American Fur Company. The American Fur Co. have made a poor collection of furs this year--are bringing their business to a close.

Jul 7--.....Mr. G. preached today twice. He had quite a number of white men and more Indians to hear him. After meeting many got drunk. The American Fur Company are ruining men as fast as they can with their Alcohol.

Jul 8--Last night Mr. Ermitinger had 2 horses stolen from him by 2 of his own men.

Jul 9--Last night one of the men came back for his horse he had stolen. He was not careful to secure him safely, so the horse returned home in the night. He came boldly into camp to look for him. Mr. Ermitinger watched for him and saw him. When the man saw Mr. E. he cocked his gun to shoot him (the gun he had stolen also). He did not shoot but turned and ran off. This is a specimen of similar occurrences which are quite common in the mountains at this time. The men are most of them out of business and know not what to do.

Jul 12--....Mrs. G's horse in passing a side hill which was very steep and dangerous slipped, and came near going down to the bottom of the hill, she partly fell, but her clothes caught on the horse and held her. She was very much frightened, though not injured, about 10 o'c we passed up a very steep hill, which was very hard for our horses, and our wives as they walked up.....

Jul 13--...our way today very hilly, we pass over places on side hills and among trees that appear almost impassible, in some places the road is on the side hill, some 30 feet, and sometimes as high as 60 ft above the level, and on an angle of 40 to 60 degrees from a horizontal, in a narrow path where two horses could not pass with their packs.....

Jul 16--....made for the soda springs, arrived about 10 o'c. We found the waters a luxury indeed, as good soda as I ever drank, boiling up out of the earth. There are several of these springs--all that we saw are sunk down a little below the surface of the earth. The mother spring of all we saw is said to be 10 or 12 feet across and no bottom has ever yet been found. The water there is much stronger than at the springs we saw, these springs, which are called the Pots, boil up from the outlet of the mother spring which passes along under ground and runs into the river. The water is clear and has a smart taste like small beer, though it has more of the sting to it than any beer I ever drank. I drank freely of it. It had a very good effect. Below these springs is another curiosity, on the bank of the Bear river is a small hole in the rock about 6 or 7 inches in diameter nearly round running down on an angle of 45 degrees back from the river, out of which there is boiling or rather foaming water about blood warm. This is thrown out at intervals of about 4 or 5 seconds--it would seem to be gasping for breath drawing in wind which makes a guggling noise when passing in, then out comes the water in a half steam form, as though mixed with gas and pressed out with tremendous force. There is another similar, though not one fourth as large, and emits but little water. This is called by mountain men-- the steam engine. The whole surface of the earth about this place, and the soda springs, and finally all over this region presents every proof of having been a volcano, the lava covers the whole surface of the earth. The rocks all about have been evidently in a melted state. I took specimens of 4 different kinds some harder than others. There is a bed of white clay, about as white as our common white earthen (ware). This is used by the Indians in all parts of the mountains for whitening skins &c.

Jul 17--We left Mr. Ermitinger this morning and took another rout, for making meat last us down the Columbia river.

Jul 18--We traveled on in a northwardly direction toward a place called Gray's hole...our company consists of 14 men and two women. We have 35 horses and mules.

Jul 22--Today our company are making meat. The hunters came in last evening. This is made by cutting into this slices and spreading it upon a rack which is made of rods laid upon poles raised about 2 feet above the fire--There we let it dry and half roast, or heat gradually until the juice or blood is dried, then it is taken of, packed together and pressed all night......We are now descending the mountains toward the Pacific within 40 miles of Ft. Hall....E. almost worn down with hard traveling and hard thinking.

Jul 25--moved on until we came within 6 mles of Ft. Hall....

Jul 26--started about noon for Ft. Hall. Was welcomely received by Mr. Ermitinger and Mr. Walker who are the principal men in charge of this Fort--Found Mr. Rodgers here from the mission west of the mountains. I returned a horse I received of him at Soday Springs. He would receive nothing for the use of him. Mr. Rodgers went home with me and stayed with me until this morning.

Jul 27--Took Eliza and went up to the Fort and spent the afternoon. The men were drinking very much

Jul 29--After dark I got on a strange mule to go in search of our horses. I rode about half a mile only, before she rared up, jumped, and kicked until she threw me off and broke my right shoulder. Providentially there was a physician in camp who set the bone free of charge.

Aug 1--E. has hard labors. Tuesday she washed and lamed her wrists-- yesterday she had to get her own wood and climb a steep bank for water. It was too much for her.

Aug 2--Today I finished copying the Journal up to this date to Dea Goodell--and finished my letter to mother and gave them to Mr. Richardson to forward to the States, as he with three men is to start tomorrow to return. We have had the privilege of living alone nearly a week.

Aug 5--Mr. Griffin offered to help us this morning as we were about to move up near to the fort. We thought it would not be safe for us to remain where we are since the company left. Mr. Richardson and his company started yesterday for the States, and all the remainder or other part of the company had started before for Van Cover (Vancouver), so that we are left alone (of the original group from the states).

Aug 9--This evening Mr. Ermitinger came down to inquire why we were here destitute of horses--or why both claimed the same horses!--I told him the reasons--how the money we had expended had been raised--how much more had been expended than we had anticipated &c, &c.

Aug 10--We have been kindly supplied with milk--sweet and sour, some butter, flower, sugar, &c and berries from the fort.

Aug 12--this morning all preparations made for a start for Walla Walla. Mr. E. furnished 5 hores which he had promised, and one for the Indian to ride who packed for us. The use of six horses gratis is no trifle for 500 miles travel, as I was leading the 5 horses over to the tent Mr. McKee told me that 3 of Mr. G's horses were gone--they had looked for them all morning.

Aug 14--Last night I had a restless night quite unwell--kept E. awake-- she arose early and got breakfast--while I slept. Mr. G. unwell also...

Aug 16--...E. had taken cold--settled in her limbs--which renders it tedious for her to ride--my shoulder gaining....

Aug 17--... E. better able to ride than yesterday....

Aug 18--Camped this evening on Snake river, or near it, on the opposite side are what are called Shoots. They are large springs of water shooting out of the rock 50 or 60 ft above the river. A man some years since, in attempting to swim across the river to look at this scene drowned. Mr. Ermitinger sent to Salmon falls 3 or 4 miles distant and purchased fresh Salmon.

Aug 19--after riding about one hour we came to the falls--here we got a supply of fish to last us to Ft Boysa (Boise). Here the Indians have built three houses of willows and grass. These are not perpendicular falls, but rapids where they catch fish with their hands....

Aug 20--In packing this morning Mr. E. told us to prepare our packs for crossing the river--rode only one hour before we came to the crossing place. This is rather a dangerous place, the bottom of the river here is gravel and lies like snow drifts--below these piles there would be deep holes, where a horse must swim or drown if he should get into them. The water was very clear, all arrived safe--no accident unfavorable...

Aug 22--...I have had some pain for several days this originates from a foul stomach.

Aug 23-- This day proceed onwards towards the Fort.....came in sight of the Fort between 3 & 4. Camped in a field; on a bank of the river near the fort--found the people here friendly indeed. Eliza feels almost worn out, and no wonder....I took cold today in bathing, had some fever, removed my cold by sweating. Mr. Ermitinger has been exceedingly kind to us since we started, he has acted the part of the gentleman indeed & continues to do so. He said to us "make up your minds how much flour, and meal, fish, sugar, butter & cawesh (Camas) you want, and I will supply you".

Aug 27--Left Boiza (Boise) about 10 o'c for Walla Walla...

Aug 31--more hills today--a shower stopped us a few minutes today-- drove late camp'd on the grand round as it is call'd, a small river. Mr. Griffin tried to employ a guid here to conduct him to Mr. Spauldings.

Sep 2--Commenced traveling through the Blue Mountains. These are principally covered with pine....at noon we descended a long hill off the Blue Mountains 2 or 3 miles long found an encampment of Indians--heard by them that Dr. Whitman was not at home--was at Mr. Spauldings. They expected him next Thursday...

Sep 4--..after 5 or 6 hours we reached the Walla Walla river and stopped to rest...Mr. Griffin left us this morning for Mr. Spauldings without a guide. In 3 or 4 hours we reached the Fort--This was the end of our journey as anticipated when we left Oberlin. We were welcomely received by Mr. Pomber (Pambrun) the keeper of the fort. This man has a wife and 6 children. He has raised some vegetables this season. He had quite a patch of potatoes--2 or 3 acres, had some cabbages and melons, beets, turnips, fowls, bread, salt and fresh salmon, and in fact everything of living kind which we want........This Fort is situated upon the Columbia river. Here is the point where we first saw the river.

Sep 9--Mr. Pomber, we understood by Mr. Ermitinger, had concluded to give us an invitation to spend the winter with him and busy ourselves teaching his children, and the like, if we dont find an opportunity to spend the winter with Mr. Whitman. This he has done for our accomodation and not for his convenience. This morning Mr. Smith and Mr. Rogers arrived and the man that helped us from the States. He told us that Mr. Griffin arrived at Dr. Whitman's on Wednesday last. He drove very fast in order to get there before we should. When he arrived he found the family were not at home, and only stayed 3 or 4 hours--hired a pilot-- started for Mr. Spauldings with the intention of arriving there before they left. But it proved otherwise. Dr. Whitman and his wife, Mr. Hall the printer from Sandwich Islands and his wife arrived here soon after noon. They had been here but a few hours before the way was prepared for us to go home with them and spend the winter. They wanted joiner work, and such other things as I could do....

Sep 10--I this morning closed a bargain with Dr. Whitman and made arrangements to go home with him today. Mr. Ermitinger had a long talk with him and all the other missionaries that were here--Brother Geger (Geiger) and Mr. Johnson (D.G. Johnson who left soon for the Sandwich Islands) called on Dr. Whitman (as they had gone on ahead from Ft. Hall) and helped pave the way that led us to the harbor we are in this fall. Left the Fort in company with Dr. Whitman & his wife on horseback... We lingered along some when first setting out on account of Mrs. Hall, she is not able to ride on horse back--having been diseased for years with a spinal affection, and came here for the purpose of recovering her health. 3 men took a canoe, and are going up the Walla Walla river with her. We rode on after leaving them tolerably fast--arrived at home before sunset 25 miles. You can judge something of Eliza's health and strength if she is able after riding almost constantly for 4 months, to get on to a horse & ride 25 miles in less than half a day.

We found Dr. Whitman in comfortable circumstances. He has raised about 100 bushels of corn, raising of a 1000 bushels of potatoes as he thinks, though they are not yet dug--some wheat, peas, beans, beets, carrots, turnips, squashes, melons, onions, broom corn, hops, summer and winter squashes, pumpkins, &c. He has provisions enough for his family for the year and some to spare to the Indians to pay them for their labor. I commenced preparing a bench and tools to work with. Dr. W. had a house built of brick, or dobies as they are called, made of clay without burning. This they wanted to have finished, as soon as possible-- as Mr. Hall is to occupy it this winter. He had good pine timber seasoned and piled up in house ready to finish it off, and all the materials to do it with. All that was lacking was a joiner. I commenced working at one of the rooms (the one designed for the parlor) about two weeks ago, and finished it today. My arm has recovered nearly its usual strength. Eliza's health is good--I knew it better. She is now assisting Mrs. Whitman in her household affairs. Mrs. W. is teaching the Indian children. The school commenced since we came here. They have delayed the school for want of a Book. They have now acquired a sufficient knowledge of the language to teach and communicate religious instruction on the Sabbath. They have quite a large school--children quite interested to learn. The collection for a school is yet a novelty with them--How long they will continue to be as deeply interested no one knows.

Mr. Ermitinger called here on his return to Ft. Hall. Just before he arrived a Lawyer by the name of Farnam arrived from the States to our great surprise. He had started with quite a company, but they had been falling off, one after another until there were only about a half dozen when they arrived here.

Mr. Griffin's horses were found. It is said they were stolen by the Indians and Mr. Walker at Ft. Hall gave one of them for finding the other two. We have found friends as you will judge from what I have said--are surrounded by those that appear like brothers and sisters. We expect in a few days to commence keeping house....


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